Snail Soup

It took almost 8 months to learn I was eating snails.

Well not snails, exactly, but snail broth. With my noodles. And lots of it. In fact, every time I ate these noodles, once the noodles were gone, I’d slurp down the broth spoonful by spoonful until I couldn’t spoon it anymore, and then I’d grab the bowl with both hands and tilt it back and pour every last drop into my gaping mouth. Every last drop of snail broth, once or twice or sometimes three times a week.

Only I didn’t know. I wish I didn’t know still. I haven’t eaten the noodles since I found out. I need to. I love them, but now I’m afraid that I won’t be able to slurp down every drop of broth without thinking about snails, dead snails, marinating the boiling broth. Which tastes so delicious, especially with some bamboo shoots, lettuce leaves, tofu skin, rice noodles, and a hefty spoon of chili oil. I just wish I didn’t know.

From photobucket user Izos, these look almost identical to the Luo Si noodles I eat. Or ate.

It’s my Chinese teacher’s fault. Last week in class we started a new unit about “the taste of China.” The first word on our list was 特 (te) which means special. She asked if we’d found, by ourselves, any special tasting food in Beijing. I spoke up fast.

“Downstairs there’s a green noodle restaurant in the basement next to Burger King,” I said.

“Oh yeah, the 螺蛳 (luo si) noodles. Yes, even Chinese people think the flavor is very strong,” she said.

“What?” I said. I didn’t understand what “luo si” meant.

She drew a snail on the blackboard and tapped it with the chalk.

“Luo si.” Tap, tap. “Luo si.”

“No, no,” I said. A different place. There are no snails in the noodles. It’s always really busy. I told her the restaurant slogan.

“Yeah,” she said. “Snail noodles. No snails in the noodles. Just in the broth.”

“Snail noodles.”

When class ended, I walked by the place on the way home. I still didn’t believe her, even though I’d been thinking more and more how the noodles did have a strong, kind of strange taste. I reached the green storefront and looked at the massive characters, white ones, above the door. This why it’s dangerous to be bad at reading. They weren’t hard to see.

螺蛳 – snail.

Snail noodles. How I wish I didn’t know.

Walk a 160 miles in my shoes

Jordyn recently got a FitBit as a gift from my mom, and we put it to good use on our Sichuan/Hubei trip. She finally synced it up with the computer today and here’s the breakdown for the two weeks (minus one day she left it in the hotel):

160.24 miles (a day high of 18.95)
380,520 steps
37,223 calories burned

Not bad, I say.

Big Changes at the Zoo

Note: Animal pictures below.

The weather was nice enough today after a nasty stretch of air to make it back to the zoo.

Any zoo is a favorite place of mine, and the Beijing Zoo has been my go-to place whenever I’ve felt homesick. Today was just a good chance to visit the animals after about six months away. I was surprised to find some substantive changes after such a short time.

For one, ticket prices dropped from 40 yuan to 10. Second, the zoo has put up more barriers and new cutesy signs to try to prevent feeding (and probably subsequent injury), which is nonetheless still popular among the locals, who bring bags of vegetables (me = guilty) and chicken guts and such as treats for the animals.

Finally, in just a few months the zoo has managed to tear down the old nasty bear enclosure, where I once watched the Asiatic black bear down bottle after bottle of coke just like a middle-aged American office worker while taking breaks to munch on the hot dogs with which he’d been pelted. In its place was built Bear Mountain, which has a trio of really pretty nice grassy and wooded enclosures. They are home to a bunch brown bear cubs and the old Asiatic black bears. Inside the new walkways, decorated with some native-people’s-style cave art, is a line of beautifully designed posters of bears doing bear things along with sayings like “Just like you I feel sadness, but I also keep striving to be happy” or “Just like you I need a family. Without my mother I would die” in both English and Chinese. It seems as if the management is pushing hard to relate the animals to humans. Although the consciousness regarding animals and their place in the world is changing rapidly, China still badly needs that kind of push so its good to see.

I could probably write a Friedman-esque think piece about how the evolving zoo represents China at large or something, but instead we’ll just say that I’mhappy to see the progress. I really do think its a good portent for the future.

Anyway, here’s a few pictures I snapped.